Creative CV

In this blog post, I am going to show how I created my creative CV. I used the CV I already have but I was able to correct some mistakes I made in my old CV thanks to the National Career lesson that we had. After that lesson, I’ve seen the mistakes I made and how boring my CV was looking, So I edited it and created a new.

  1. STARTED WITH AN IDEA

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2. WHEN I GOT TO THIS PONT I WASN’T SURE ABOUT THE TEMPLATE I WAS CREATING AS IT LOOKED LIKE THE BLACK BIT AT THE TOP WAS TAKING ALL THE SPACE SO I DECIDED TO CHANGE IT.

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3.TRIED THIS SCHEME AND I LIKED ITScreen Shot 2017-05-21 at 20.18.02

PREVIOUS ONE

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NOW

Creative CV   Creative CV2

I can say I’m happy with the final result, but I only concentrated on the template rather than updating the information in my CV. I am planning to change that later on, I need to add more work experience and activities that I’ve done within the photography industry rather than my previous normal jobs. I’ve also added borders which I think makes it look better.

Research into Fashion Photography​ Industry

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In this blog post, I’m going to look into the fashion photography industry, which is the field which interests me more at the moment. At the beginning of the year I was really not sure about which sector I preferred between Advertising, Editorial and Fashion photography as when I was in college I did a bit of everything, but this year after exploring all the sectors again, I’ve noticed that I enjoyed and felt more comfortable in doing my fashion assignment. This is why I have decided to research more into this industry.

Firstly, is good to know what a fashion photographer’s work involve. He photographs garments but in a creative and very technical way by using ideas, themes of the season, the clothing range, the designer or the brand. It can also be for catalogues and websites and they have to represent the style of the clothes accurately.  To make sure these ideas are eye-catching and interesting they don’t only shoot in studio but also on location.         A fashion photographer has to be very flexible he cannot just be good with photography technicalities, he needs to have an interest in fashion, know the history and update himself on new trends and styles because this industry always changes and is always looking for original and innovative ideas. Photographers who have a good understanding of this aspect of fashion are able to create the best and most relevant work. They are also commissioned for different publications, they can work for high-fashion magazines one day work and for a simple website, where they style is completely different another day, that’s why they need to have excellent working and organising skills and lots of creative ideas. Very often fashion photographers work in teams which include art directors, editors, stylist, producer and many others which are part of a large creative staff and they all need to work together to achieve briefs which are given to them by clients. Well established Fashion and Magazine photographers work from their own studios but some photographers work in studios which are actually supplied by their clients.                                                                                                                                       Networking in this industry is very important, photographers must develop and maintain contacts within the fashion industry and the fashion publishing business.
As I stated first this industry always changes so a photographer can stick to one trend and style all the time, he needs to continuously refresh his style and demonstrate their new ideas and creative vision to lots of people.                                                                                                        Initially, I thought a fashion photographer would work with few models chosen by him but that is not how it works. They work with a variety of models selected according to what’s the idea and concept, the model has to represent the style and features of the clothes, that’s he probably needs new models for different shoots.

There are three areas in this sector that interest me:

  1. Magazine photographers they take photos for weekly or monthly magazines and daily newspapers. They need strong creative and technical skills to interpret the editors brief.  They need to be good in shooting either in studio or location. They often work through agencies.
  2. High fashion photographers they work on top-level in fact they are highly paid photographers and they work in their own studio or they rent it. They get to this level thanks to their success and past experience and this shows that to get in such a position you must have worked hard for years and they were able to improve excellent technical skills and important contacts and clients in the industry. The good thing about high fashion photographers is that they can select their own team of assistants.
  3. Catalogue photographers they have good communication and organisational skills and be able to control studio or location situations of the whole team to work together towards a common goal. They need outstanding technical skills and must work closely and quickly to fulfil the client’s and designer’s creative brief.

Secondly, who employs fashion photographers? They are employed by catalogues, fashion magazines or houses, advertising agencies. They can also be self-employed. It is interesting to know that to produce a range of photos enough to fill many catalogues and websites they spend days and weeks shooting, someone could thing they can do all of that in few hours.

Thirdly, how much do they earn? It depends. If they reach the top as a High Fashion or Magazine Photographers, they earn very high fees, whereas a catalogue or website photographer receives a salary and paid holidays just as a regular employee.                                                                                                I also looked at LinkedIn Salary ( https://www.linkedin.com/salary?trk=jobshome_linkedin_salary ) which I was able to access because I am as a student and it shows you salaries of different jobs in different areas. I couldn’t find a specific role as fashion photographer so I looked at picture editor, as editing is something I also enjoy doing a lot and wouldn’t mind finding a job in this sector too.

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This shows an estimate of how a picture editor would earn in a year in London. To have more information about salaries in this sector I looked for photographers job in general and searched different locations to see how the salary changes. I started by looking for photographers job in London, Birmingham and San Francisco because these are the cities where I would like to find a job in three years time. I couldn’t find anything in Birmingham but I was able to compare the prices in London and San Francisco.

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Whilst researching, the website gave me more information about the top-paying locations for a photographer in the United Kingdom and surprisingly Leeds the other city after London.

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Do fashion photographers need a qualification? Many people would think is not necessary just because many successful photographers did not need a qualification to get where they are. But I think times have changed, someone can be really talented but learning and having a qualification will prepare you and give you a solid background before getting into the industry. Therefore, qualification is needed. There are not many places that offer specialised courses for fashion photographers but there are many colleges and universities, especially here in the United Kingdom which give you the chance to attend a course that will teach you all the skills you need to get into the industry. The creative Skillset Tick, The LBIPP which is offered by the British Institute of Professional Photography and the AOP, have a really good and high reputation, they offer different qualifications and because of their good reputation, it can benefit photographers that have studied with them against other photographers working in the same industry.

To work in this industry there are key skills that fashion photographers need. Excellent communication skills are vital, as they are constantly communicating with people, some would think being a photographer would only involve working with your camera and model but that is not the reality, as we now know there are many people behind the scenes. They also need excellent networking skills, they have to keep being in touch, find new contacts and not lose them. Be highly organised, from experiences I’ve heard of from visiting lectures and videos, many photographers are given a really short time to shoot many things and without being organised or managing their time well they might end up not meeting their deadlines. Also because of the short time they need to work well even under pressure. They do not only think about photography but research and explore the fashion world and also keep experimenting and trying out new ideas. Thanks to many visiting lectures we had during this year I now know other skills, fashion photographers need to work in this sector. Most of the photographers we had, talked about how important it is to know all your equipment and camera very well, to have an excellent sense of composition and perspective, be good in using software and to be able to control situations whether in studio or on location as there will be days where everything seems to be going perfectly but also other days where things could be going in the wrong way and when that happens you need to know how to react to the situation. One last important thing many lectures mentioned is to be ambitious and serious about your career.

Lastly, What’s the best way to get in this industry? by assisting a photographer is usually a good way, as it will help you prepare and learn closely from someone who’s already in the industry and this will give you the experience. Meantime, by attending events and places with the photographer you would be able to meet clients, models etc.,

ref: ( http://creativeskillset.org/who_we_help/young_creative_talent) , ( linkedln.com).

Interview with a practitioner

Interviews

Photographers I could interview

J. A. P – photographer

Dom More

EA photography

Decided to interview Jide a video editor/photographer based in London

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  1. How and why did you start having an interest in photography?

During my media studies in University, we touched on photography in the past, but did not do much and I hade a vague idea of photographic basics. After University working in the media department showed me different sides of photography. For curiosity I decided to buy my self a big givers camera and played around with it for a while, I really liked it and since then I’ve had a serious interest for photography.

2. What series of events lead you to this point?

The first photography job I had, aside my work was a fashion commercial, a friend knew I started my little photography business and recommended me to another person who needed the job done asap. Hadn’t done work like this before, I was very nervous but with the help of some of my work colleagues I was able to do it and little by little I started getting more contacts to work for.

3. What is your main source of influence within your work?

Surely being in the media industry, photography is one of the main subjects, working with photographers, directors and many other stuff, I mean, I have been influenced by all of them.

4. Have you got any photographer that inspires you or whom you admire?

Not really, I take my inspiration from everywhere, really, most of the times from little scenes in videos.

5. What is your personal project are you working on at the moment?

At the moment I am renaming my whole media photography company, changing the name and other details like updating my web page to be more visible to people.

6. Are you proud of what you have done so far in your career and why?                      Yes, I am proud so far of my career within the film editing , but as for my photography career is still a work in progress, as is been only few years I’ve been doing this .

EVALUTATION

This module was divided into two section. The first part was about ‘Experience’ where we had to work both within and outside our programme area whereas in the second part we had to explore digital Magazine Design, moving image and motion.

We first started with creating a Cinemagraph, I did struggle a bit to create one because it’s so easy to make it wrong, starting from the filming part and also because I have never done it before but I’m sure that by persisting and trying more times I will understand it much more and it could look much better next time. However, I’m really happy we did this because I can use it in my future work to make it look much creative.

During our Wednesday lessons, we were also assigned little tasks like going around town and photographing colours that could make the rainbow and other objects that could look like letters and come up with the whole alphabet. We were usually into groups of 4 or less and I think these little tasks were challenges that helped me to have a quick eye in locating little and simple things quickly. It might have seemed a very easy task to achieve, but until you don’t think outside the box it can be slightly difficult, therefore I think they have been little useful tasks to do.

We then started doing the experiences, I really liked and had fun for the first experience, which was within my programme area, commercial photography, where we created two contrasting live photographic shoots, offering other students to have their portrait taken in 2 styles ‘Film Noir’ or ‘High End Fashion’. It really went well, I think not only for us but also the other students that came to have their picture taken had fun. I then went on to my next experience which was Contemporary Media Practise (Prisim), which wasn’t too bad, it was good as it involved some filming and editing and that’s what I was looking forward to do also the teacher explained everything well and was always ready to help and I did improve using Premier Pro, which is good because I had use it later on in my own course. The last experience was Growth, which wasn’t too bad too unlike the previous experience it did not include any filming and that was a bit strange, because  comparing the two experiences I would have expected this experience to have some filming included rather than the other one but it was the other way round, but it was still good because we used Premier Pro, which helped me once again to learn about the software even more.

Overall, I think the intent behind this whole experience project, was to help us learn new skills from other disciplines which we find interest in but don’t have the chance to study and I think it was a great idea of the college, because for example I used to do Media, loved filming and editing but decided to pursue photography, this was a good chance to go back into filming, to remember some skills I’ve learned in the past and improve them as later on in the year I had to use these skills. It was also a good way to experiment with something you’ve heard of but have no idea of what it is about, for example I would have loved to try the ceramic experience although I was not selected for that it could have been a great experience, even just to try to learn how it worked, as I was really curious to know. Also I chose the Prisim experience because I have never heard of that before and that made me curios but I now know what it is about. So I think this was a good idea the college had, however, I think it has to be elaborated much more and programmed well, although the intent was great it did not workout very well in terms of organisation and timing.

For the second section of this module we had to create a magazine layout, a video and a magazine layout with the video incorporated. I really did enjoy creating a video and magazine, I just struggled with understanding the brief as I wasn’t too sure of what the video had to be about, so I just based it on my Environmental Portrait which I took in the first term for the Editorial assignment. I think the video came up well, although I had to change the whole storyboard when I was editing, because I used my iPad to record the voice over and I thought it was loud enough but when I got to the editing bit, I noticed that by adding the music, you could not hear my subjects voice at all. I tried lowering the musics volume and increasing his voice but it still did not work so I had to take his voice out completely, which was a bit sad as we spent a whole day recording the voice. After taking his voice off, the whole video was not making sense anymore so I had to show and  ask my classmate what I could have added or removed to make it more significant and she suggested to change the song, to choose a song which had lyrics as I was initially using an instrumental track and then to add words or subtitles instead of him talking. I did so, and it turned up much better but I couldn’t include everything that he was saying as it would have gone over 3 minutes because the video had to be not less tha 1 minute and 30 seconds and not more than 3 minutes. So I just added short phrases he stated, which were relevent to the certain part of the video. This video is a little presentation of the guy I photographed for my environmental portrait. In this short video I tried to say something about his work, education and passion. I showed my final piece to my classmate and she liked it, so I know it is not great but I hope it is successful and makes sense. Although, I think with him talking over it would have looked so much better and the video would have said much more than it says now without the voiceover.        Overall, this project has been long but a very good way to expand our skills, and know much more than photography.

 

Cinemagraph

 

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HOW TO CREATE A CINEMAGRAPH STEP BY STEP

  1. Create a 30 seconds short video, make sure it is on a tripod and the camera is not shaking. else it will affect the editing after.
  2. On Photoshop go to Window > Workspace > motion
  3. Open the video and play it
  4. Choose a which part of the film to use
  5. To cut out what you don’t want to use and make it smaller grab the edge of the timeline
  6. Make sure you select a part where your subject is very still
  7. Move the file to the top
  8. Delete the Group video
  9. Select (CMND A + CMND J) duplicate
  10. Move the image so it is the same length as the video
  11. Copy the layer of the still image
  12. Create a layer mask on top of the layer
  13. Erase (E) the moving area and remember to work only on the top layer
  14. Adjust it with the Brush (B)
  15. Change exposure/contrast/saturation
  16. And export it as a gif

I created 3 different cinamegraph but these two look much better. I did struggle to make them because I think as soon as you get the filming wrong the whole cinemagraph won’t work and probably the fact that I have never done it before, made it even more difficult. I’m sure that by persisting and trying more times I will understand it much more. The editing part wasn’t too hard as I knew the tools well, but finding the right area to use and be really precise when editing it and making the loop look fluent is where I failed. I should have tried again as I think it would have looked better because I now know what I was doing wrong. I will definitely try this again in my own time as I think it is something I can use in my work to make it look more creative.

Tasks

TASK 1: What is your context

  • Consider what has brought you to where you are now at the outset of your degree in photography.

I always had an interest in photography, so I decided to study it and making a living career. I started off by doing a BTEC in Media and this pushed me even more to choose a photography course. I decided to go for a 2 years course in BTEC  in photography and after that, I felt like I wanted to learn more and improve my skills on Fashion photography and Advertising so I decided I had to go to university to increase this knowledge. So I started looking for the right university that offered such a specific photography course as I did not want to do any artistic or darkroom photography and after searching so intensively Laura who is now doing the same course at PCA with me suggested I should check the BA commercial photography and by visiting the web page and reading information I thought it was what I was looking for and that’s how I ended up in this photography course.

  • What has made you the person you are today?

My family and the environment I was raised up in and many events and situations I have encountered in my life have made me what I am today.

  • What are the key moments/events/people that have formed you?

Moving from a country to another, different situations, family and friends, hard and good moments.

  • Where did your interest in photography come from?

My dad had three cannon cameras, I can’t remember what types but I remember the Canon EOS 3000 and he used to take pictures of my mum, sister and me all the time, for every single event in our life, even for silly things like when my first tooth came out. So I guess seeing my dad taking pictures and developing them all the time created an interest in me. Around 2008 I went on a trip with the school and that’s when my dad gave me his camera to use and I remember my teachers were surprised of how big the camera looked on me and there’s when one of my teachers started giving me lots of photography magazines to read. I did read them but I only had a basic interest in photography.

  • What do want/expect to gain from studying a degree in photography?

Improve my skills and be very confident. To be able to have opportunities and open new doors by the time I finish.

  • What has influenced you to make this life choice?

I had to motivate myself to finally try to be serious about having a career in photography. Thinking about my future pushed me to make this choice.

  • Do you have a specific interest or outlook on life that stems from your past or yourupbringing?

Something I have learnt with time is that no matter how bad you are doing in something if you focus on yourself and motivate yourself you will be able to achieve a good result.

  • At this point in time, what kind of image-maker do you want to be?

When I first started the course I was not sure whether I wanted to get into advertising or fashion photography but after completing an advertising assignment and working on a fashion one I had to admit that I feel much confident and having fun in doing the fashion

TASK 2 

Research and ‘Read’ three photographic images taken by established photographers (historical or contemporary)

  • One image should clearly define it’s intent through the image alone:

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This is a photo by Don McCullin, he is a well-known war photographer and through his photographs, he made the rest of the world aware of what it means to be in war. He used to concentrate more on soldiers and other war components in his photographs but when he took this photo was the time when decided to actually show the people who are really affected by the war, the civilians, as he describes them as ‘the people who were picking up the real price of war’ and  ‘always the last people to be told that it was coming to them’. Such an image does not need much explanation, it talks on its own, it is about a woman whose husband has just been killed. The face of the woman, full of pain and agony, the little boy crying, extending his hands toward the woman who is probably the mother, the other woman crying, it is a scene of collective anguish and although they are all in pain it seems they are all trying to comfort the woman as she is the main focus of the photo.

One should need clarification of intent through caption or other signs. (I.e. it may be part of a series and as such fails to convey it’s intent as a single image.

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This is another photograph by Don McCullin of a US marine suffering severe shell shock waiting to be evacuated from the battle zone in 1968. In this photo, you clearly understand that it is about war and a soldier who is in a terrifying situation by the look of his face. However, is less straightforward than the previous image as this if you take his soldier clothes off and the weapon he is holding the soldier loses his identity. Also, he could be any soldier, anywhere in whatever situation but with a little bit of research, I was able to know a little bit of his identity, what was going on, where and when.

  • Finally, one image should be one that needs further investigation to clearly understand it’s intent.

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Unlike the first two photographs, this one is just the portrait of an elderly man, who could be anyone. A criminal? A soldier? A doctor? Or just an ordinary old man. This photo could tell us nothing but by knowing the reason behind it tells a lot.  This portrait photographed by Maciek Nabrdalik is the portrait of Roman Kent Holocaust survivor. Now knowing who he is, when I look at the picture you have a different feel, I now understand why the black and white, why you can only see his face and it seems like he is surrounded by the dark and there’s only one key light showing not too much of his face  and this could be portrayed his actual state of how he feels now after having such a past. He might still feel surrounded by his past even if he did survive it. I thought it was interesting to share what he said:

“I think you can divide the camp survivors into two categories. One group would say: ‘God wanted me to survive.’ And in this way their faith in God is stronger. On the other hand you have people who would say: ‘If God is what we believed he was, he must have been in Auschwitz. And how could he allow children, little children, to be killed? Where was God then?’

I believe in the goodness of men. I judge people not by their religion, but by who they are and how they act. And if we speak about religions, I would like to add one more to the Ten Commandments. The 11th commandment should be: ‘When you see evil, do something.’ Most evil things happen when people are bystanders, when they do nothing. And then evil can prevail even if it’s done by a small group of people. The Righteous are the moral example of what could have been done, but what the humankind failed to do.”

TASK 3

  • Locate 2 photographic portraits, one historical, one contemporary. Provide a brief analysis of the images:
  • Describe the images
  • Consider the subject, styling, background, composition, lighting
  • Interpret the images: Where might the image have been taken?
    How would you read the image?
    Is there any implied meaning?
    What does the image say/reveal about the sitter?

Image 1

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This portrait was taken by Richard Avedon in 1981, California. He was commissioned to take portraits of the people in West America. He focused on everyday working class subjects such as farmers, miners soiled in their work clothes etc.  This project lasted five years. In this image there’s a naked man with bees all over his body, from the image I deduce he has something to do with bees as his facial expression looks very relaxed, not everyone would have such an expression in such a picture. In fact, he is Ronal Fischer a beekeeper. I don’t think there’s any implied meaning in this portrait, here Avedon is just revealing us what this man is into. Avedon used ambient light as all his portraits for American West are done outdoors with a very white and plain background and the subject is looking straight at the camera also he did not take an extreme close up of the subject face but a mid shot to include other features that say something about the subject.

Image 2

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This is the Queen’s portrait by Annie Leibovitz at Buckingham Palace in 2007. Here we can see the Queen in the White Drawing Room, in her long rope and wear her crown in such a royal place. Seems like Annie L. did not want to make use of lots of lights as it looks like there’s only one key light which is daylight coming out from the window and the rest of the room is quite dark. She is very composed and not smiling. Analysing all these factors makes me think that she wanted to portray the seriousness, luxury and royalty of the Queen. I do not think she wanted to portray her as a simple funny lady. In fact, when Annie asked her if she could remove her crown for a “less dressy” pose, the Queen answered “Less dressy? What do you think this is?” and Annie giggles described her as being feisty and also states “She is a woman with a great sense of duty”.

TASK 4

  • Locate one environmental/editorial portrait that you are particularly drawn to.
  • Describe the image in terms of it’s formal characteristics (e.g. lighting, use of colour, composition)
  • Consider the narrative of the image. What does the compositional content and the formal treatment that you have described, say about the person and the narrative?

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This is an environmental portrait of a man sitting comfortably in his barber shop. Looking at this image I would say he used a very shallow depth of field as the guy is really in focus but the rest of the shop and the other two men at the back are blurred. I think the photographer used ambient light, but there’s a little highlight on his hair which shows that maybe the photographer has used flashlight. As I stated at the beginning because he is the main character of the image, his hairstyle, clothes and the way he is sitting comfortably would make me think he works there and this is his shop. However, at the same time I think it would have been more effective if the photographer had the man actually working and wearing the gown as the man in the back that would have said much more in a more direct way, whereas here he could be the owner but he could also be a client who just had his hair done and the newspaper he is holding makes him look like a client even more.

I would say this person is a carpenter or something to do with working with wood. Looking at the pose of the subject it’s quite a relaxed pose and I feel like he is happy to be showing his work and what he does for a living. Yet his face does show some seriousness to it, maybe he is serious about what he does or maybe that is just his natural face. Overall I think this is a good setup image and brings across and suggests what he does for a living.

TASK 5

  • Locate 1 ‘Off the Page’, print advertisement
  • Describe the imagery
  • Consider the content, styling, background, composition, lighting, use of colours
  • Interpret the Language
  • Who is the Advertisement aimed at?
    What is the ad saying, what is the proposition?
    What is the key communication technique being used? Is there any symbolic language being used?
    Is the ad directed at any of the levels within the hierarchy of needs?

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This image is advertising the New Gucci Guilty fragrance for women. For this image, they used a very warm bright and shiny gold colour on it, which is representing the perfumes container. I’m guessing the photographer only used a beauty dish without any snoot or anything else at the back of the hair of the guy and the background are really dark. The styling and the composition of this photos make me deduce that there is an implied message that the photographer wants to get across because it looks like the main focus of the picture is the woman. The woman looks very dominant, could be because she has been placed slightly higher than the guy, she is looking straight into the camera whereas the guy is fully lost into her and also the fact that she is grabbing the guys head. This advertisement is aimed at women and from what I interpret it’s encouraging them to get this perfume as it will make their men feel more attracted to them and they’ll have power over their men. As I stated previously I think the composition and styling of this image are the key communications technique that has been used. As for symbolic language, I could say the red lipstick is being used because it has always been seen as a stamp of morality. And morality is related to temptation and sex, which are surely two evident elements in this image. This advertisement definitely has a place within the hierarchy of needs. It would be in the group of Biological and physiological needs (Basic Life Needs).

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It’s interesting how in the advertisement of the same fragrance but for men, the man is now the main focus and he is dominant and they used the same communications techniques as they used in the other one, composition and styling but unlike the other one in this one the man is dominating, he is gazing right at the camera he is on top holding the woman.

 

TASK 6 

Read a chapter of academic text relating to either the Language of Advertising or Representation in Advertising and the Media.

E.g.

Sturken, M., (2009) Practices of looking: An Introduction to Visual Culture OUP, USA Wells, L., (2015) Photography: A Critical Introduction (5th edition) Routledge, London

Write a short summary demonstrating your understanding of what you have read

 

 

 

TASK 7

Research the Advertising Standards Authority and the specifics of the ASA’s code.

The Advertising Standards Authority (ASA) is the UK’s independent regulator of advertising across all media. We apply the Advertising Codes, which are written by Committee of Advertising Practise (CAP)

  • What are the guidelines that govern whether or not an advertisement is likely to be banned?
  1. Compliance: These are rules which relate to social responsibility and legality.
  2. Recognition of Advertising: Separation rules and content rules to make sure that ads are not mistaken for editorial.
  3. Misleading Advertising: It contains rules about evidence to prove claims; pricing; availability of products, comparisons, testimonials and more.
  4. Harm and offence  Rules to make sure that ads do not cause any harm or serious offence.
  5. Children Rules for ads for children or featuring them. Includes rules about unsafe practices and sales promotions for children.
  6. Privacy Permissions for depicting or referring to someone in ads, including members of the public and those with a public profile.
  7. Political and controversial matters Clarification of when the Code applies to the political advertisement.
  8. Distance selling allows readers to buy without face-to-face contact with the seller.
  9. Environmental Claims Rules about making ‘green’ claims for products or services. Rules cover evidence, the clarity of claims and ‘life cycle’ of products.
  10. Prohibited categories products and services that are not permitted to be advertised on TV or radio at all.
  11. Medicines, medical devices, treatments and health  Use of health professionals; they need to have evidence and has to be a very high level needed for medicinal claims; and a valid qualifications for those claiming to treat or offer advice;
  12. Weight control and slimming Rules for ads for weight control, slimming foodstuffs and aids, including exercise; diets, clinics and medicines.
  13. Food, food supplements and associated health or nutrition claims Rules relating to health and nutrition claims in foodstuffs; claims for vitamins and minerals; infant and follow on formula and food and soft drink advertising to children.
  14. Financial Products, services and investments Rules for financial marketing communications that are not regulated by the FCA or Trading Standards.
  15. Faith, religion and equivalent system of beliefs Rules for advertising by, or on behalf of bodies that are wholly or mainly concerned with religion, faith and other belief systems. The rules also apply to ads by anybody for related products and services.
  16. Charities Includes rules around donation, including refunds.
  17. Gambling Social responsibility rules for gambling and spread betting. The rules cover content and targeting and are designed to protect under 18s and the vulnerable.
  18. Lotteries Social responsibility rules that apply to lotteries (including The National Lottery; Gambling Commission licensed lotteries and locally registered lotteries)
  19. Alcohol Social responsibility rules for alcoholic drinks. The rules cover content and targeting are designed to protect under 18s and the wider population.
  20. Motoring Social responsibility rules for motor vehicles, covering safety, speed and irresponsible or anti-social driving behaviours.
  21. Betting tipsters Social responsibility rules for gambling and spread betting. The rules cover content and targeting and are designed to protect under 18s and the vulnerable.
  22. Premium-rate telephone services Rules covering pricing and content of ads that promote premium-rate telephone services.
  23. Telecommunications-based sexual entertainment services Rules restricting where and when such advertisements can appear.
  24. Homeworking schemes Rules restricting the nature of advertisements for homeworking schemes and to ensure they do not mislead.
  25. Instructional courses Rules restricting those who can advertise such courses and ensure they don’t mislead.
  26. Services offering individual advice on consumer or personal problems Requirements for suitable credentials for advertising.
  27. Introduction and dating services Rules to prevent advertisements from causing harm, including to under 18s.
  28. Competitions rule about the fair and clear administration of competitions.
  29. Private investigation agencies Requirements for suitable credentials for advertising.
  30. Pornography Rules restricting the advertisement of R18-rated material.
  31. Other categories of radio advertisements which require central copy clearance Ads for adult products and services that require central copy clearance, including adult shops, stripograms 18+ media.
  32. Scheduling rules including those related to children; age-restricted products. Separation / placement rules in. political and those related to text and interactive advertisements
  33. Electronic cigarettes Rules around electronic cigarettes.
  • How do you feel about the issue of censorship in Advertising? Is it still necessary in the Information Age?

I think censorship in advertising is a very important factor in this industry because media and advertising itself are a very powerful tool to change humans way of living, thinking and any other things especially young one’s behaviours and other characteristics are mostly influenced by advertising so is really important to know what is being advertised. Censorship is a way to protect everyone from crazy ideas someone could have and avoid the fact that many people could start imitating these ideas as crazy at it may look, so I really think it is still very necessary to put a limitation to this ads. We’ve seen how in the years advertising has had a very powerful influence on everyone. for example how it has killed many women self-esteem, depicting them as just being inferior and as sex objects.

http://www.boredpanda.com/sexism-women-objectification-advertising-womennotobjects/

https://www.asa.org.uk/news/new-guidance-on-placing-non-broadcast-ads.html

TASK 8

  • •  Locate and reflect on the work of a chosen photographer – historical or contemporary – who has explored subcultures in their work
  • •  Is the term Subculture appropriate in today’s society, or has the concept exhausted its usefulness?

What is subculture & Style?

a cultural group within a larger culture, often having beliefs or interests at variance with those of the larger culture.

Different subcultures.

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JAMIE HAWKESWORTH’S WHITBY GOTHS

Jamie Hawkesworth started documenting the local teenagers for Preston is My Paris. He then moved down to Whitby to document a large goth festival. He found them by the church Dracula, which is the church in Bram Stoker’s that made them famous and he was surprised to see that they were not as people portray them. So he started documenting the Goths. His work is based on the undocumented, new things and the reality of people, like the Goths reputation.

Since then he has shot for the magazine The Block and many other photos related to the Goths.

Subcultures then and now.

e.g if you are dressed like a skater does not mean you are a skater, whereas back in the 80s if you were dressed like a skater it meant you were one of them. Skaters now listen to any music they don’t have a specific genre of music.

I also read a very interesting article about photographer AboveGround who’s been working in the heart of New York and London. The photographer states: “I see underground culture as an iceberg. The top is seen by everyone but to understand the size of the iceberg you have to go underwater.” From this statement, I understand that Just like the other photographer he too explored this subculture in deep as he thinks what has been portrayed about it might not be the same when you are actually in it.

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http://www.dazeddigital.com/photography/article/34235/1/photographer-aboveground-london-and-nys-underbelly

TASK 9

Research a minimum of two renowned fashion photographers. (One historical, and one contemporary)

For each photographer, you should find out some of their history, who they have been influenced by, and how they have influenced the genre of fashion photography. Why has their work been seen as significant?

Horst P Horst

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Horst Paul Albert Bohrmann is one of the most artistically and technically artist between the 1930’s and 1990’s. He became really famous for his photos which were defined as elegant, with style, glamour, the beautiful lighting and composition of his photographs. His fashion portraits were mainly black and white but he photographed a series of fashion interiors. He is best known for his work with Vogue.larger.jpg

Horst was born on 14 August 1906, in Germany and he was the second son of a successful shop owner.  In his teens, he developed an interest in avant-grande art and in the late 1920’s he moved to Hamburg to study and after 10 years he moved again to Paris. Here, he attended many galleries and was around a lot of people in the art community. In fact, after not too long he met the Vogue photographer Baron George Hoyningen-Huene and became his assistant. They travelled to England and while there, they visited photographer Cecil Beaton who was working for the British Edition of Vogue. Just a year after Horst published his first photograph in the French edition of Vogue and he had his first exhibition in 1932. This exhibition got Horst famous as Janet Flanner in The New Yorker reviewed this exhibition. In fact, in the same years he took a portrait of Bette Davis and after that, he had a list of celebrities he photographed, for example, Yvonne Printemps, the French singer and actress and Luchino Visconti di Madrone, the Italian screenwriter. image.jpg

In 1937 he rented an apartment in New York and there he met Coco Chanel there is where he started photographing her fashions and he did for three decades.  He met Valentine Lawford in 1938, and they lived together and adopted their son Richard J. Horst.

In 1943, he joined the Army, after receiving his United States citizenship he became an Army photographer, photographing for the magazine Belvoir Castle. In 1945 he photographed United States President and he also photographed every First Lady in the post-war period at the invitation of theWhite House.

In 1960 began a series of photos illustrating the lifestyle of international high society which included people like Emilio Pucci, Paloma Picasso and many many other. These photographs were taken by his longtime companion, Valentine L. who then died in 1991. In the mid-1970s he was working for Vogue and also for House&Garden magazine. After a long and successful life and career, he died at 93 in Florida.

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George Hoyningen-Huene was definitely a big inspiration for Horst and also thought him a lot but the avant-grande movement and the environment he moved into has been a real influence in his work.

His work is best known for his photographs of women and fashion, especially recognised for the iconic photos of the Twentieth-Century is “The Corset” captured in Vogue’s Paris studio in 1939. Many designers use the beauty of “The Mainbocher Corset” as an inspiration for their outerwear collections today. His work frequently reflects his interest in surrealism and beauty. His photos were technically perfect, he carefully prepared for his shoot and only rarely he used filters, which shows even more how careful he was with his lighting. I remember attending, the Horst P Horst exhibition in London years ago and I noticed that for every shoot he sketched more than 5 pages of ideas and concepts, this shows how much preparation and time he spent for each shoot. The New York Times described stated: “Horst tamed the avant-garde to serve fashion.”

Bruce Weber, who has been hugely influenced bt Horst said in a television documentary: ‘The elegance of his photographs … took you to another place, very beautifully … the untouchable quality of the people is really interesting as it gives you something of a distance … it’s like seeing somebody from another world … and you wonder who that person is and you really want to know that person and really want to fall in love with that person’.

Nigel Baker

nb5.jpgNigel Barker is a well-known English photographer film-maker, TV show personality and also a former model. He was born in London but lived in America by his Sri Lankan mother and Portuguese-English father. His mum who was a professional model and also won Miss Sri Lanka was a real influence in forming his respect for the modelling profession as he grew up.

He attended Bryanston School where he took his A levels in Science. He wanted to continue his science studies and wanted to get into the medicine field but things changed when his mother entered him into a televised modelling contest, he ended up being a finalist and there’s when his modelling career travelling all around the world started and he was into it for 10 years. He noticed the way the models in the fashion industry had started to change so he decided to get into Fashion photography. Firstly, he opened a studio called StudioNB in Manhattan in the Meat Packing District which it is still there today. He was very successful for his photos, he used his contacts in the fashion industry very well and soon enough he was taking pictures for magazines, websites, and catalogues (Ted Baker, Nicole Miller, Sony, Ford, GQ, Seventeen etc).

54f7e_29_notrealpeople_lg.jpg He also took pictures of celebrities that were not yet famous at the time and that got them noticed and made him even more popular. He became so popular for his photography that they called him to be a judge on America’s Next Top Model and not only he also made appearances on Canada’s Next Top Model, New Zealand’s Next Top Model, Mexico’s Next Top Model, and Benelux’s Next Top Model. In 2007, he was invited to be the judge for the Miss America Pageant and In 2012, judge of the Miss Universe pageant.

He is the executive producer of the show The Shot, which features photographers using their skills to win an ultimate grand prize. He also directed and produced A Sealed Fate, Generation Free, and Haiti: Hunger and Hope. Nigel has also shot campaigns for many charities for which he is the celebrity ambassador. (e.g. Fashion Targets Breast Cancer).

He is not only this, he is also the spokesperson for many brands like Microsoft and Sony. In 2016 he became Creative Director of “Prai Beauty” and Artistic Director of a new American brand Flag&Anthem. He has directed and produced films and commercials for Hollywood clients and he has two books.

I can say that Baker has been influenced especially by the environment he was in, the people around him and his strong interest in photography, he says: “I worked for some incredible designers, I travelled the world. I learned a lot about photography; which is my love and what I am doing now.” However, he clarifies that Richard Avedon was a big inspiration:””I’ve always been hugely influenced by Avedon, he dealt with subjects in a simplistic manner. It was all about the subjects, not about the background. (The person) became the landscape … It was them having a thought, and that was the picture.”

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I think Nigel has influenced many young photographers like me, with the way he uses his knowledge and other skills he acquired in the past in his photography. That is why he always have new ideas, this is because he thinks outside the box and look for inspiration everywhere and he did not let photography technicalities stop him, even if he never studies photography when he decided to open a studio he used his basic knowledge and contacts he already made at the time. And I like the fact that he isn’t only a great photographer but also many other things.

 

TASK 10 Part 1

Visit the library.
Look at the latest issues of Vogue, Vanity Fair, A N Other, or

A N Other Man Magazine
Locate and copy 3 notable images that can be critiqued in

terms of: Culture, Class and Communication Critique these images on your blog

 

I looked at the latest issue of Vogue the British edition and selected 3 images that I could critique.

Image 1

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I came across these two images from the British edition of Vogue, Street style. By just looking at the images someone would deduce it is aimed at a lower class audience because of the clothing which looks very casual and the location looks like a normal not too expenses coffee shop. It feels like it is based somewhere in the neighbourhoods of New York, and the two Afro-American models and the Italian coffee shop at the back can highlight the fact that it could be in New York as the city is full of diverse culture, especially with a big Italian and Afro-American community.  This is what this image could communicate but with research you understand a much more.

This image was under the subtitle “Come and hang with New York’s Cool Kids”. The pictures were taken in Greenwich Village which is in New York and an article describes the town to be like Shoreditch for Londoners.

Greenwich has always been a heaven for freethinkers. About  100 years ago, a merry band of bohemians, led by the painter John Sloan and the Surrealist Marcel Duchamp, climbed to the top of the Washington Square Arch, set off balloons and cap guns and declared that from that moment on their hood would be known as the Free and Independent Republic of Greenwich Village. Since that day many famous artists and authors have made those “free and independent” streets their home and for many years many musicians and poets, activists and painters have gone to Greenwich. It was even said that Jackson Pollock used to enjoy a cappuccino at Caffe Reggio, supposedly the first place in America to serve that now-ubiquitous drink and that’s the same bar we see at the back of the girls in the picture. For many years, Village rebels worn biker jackets and ballet flats. In fact fashion companies like Coach still continue to rock this style.

In fact this shoot was inspired by this story and it was for spring/summer 2017 collection.  Knowing that it is a shoot for the brand Coach itself, changes everything, we definitely know that isn’t a low-class brand as it is expensive, in fact, the mixed-print dress itself is £550 and the reversible satin coat is £450! Additionally the two girls in the photo are Gabrielle Richardson the founder of Art Hoe Collective and Selah Marley, daughter of Lauryn Hill and granddaughter of Bob Marley. They combined the style of dressing you’d expect from those who frequent Greenwich Village with their own vintage finds.

Image 2

 

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This is another image from Vogue related to festival dressing for summer 2017. Is probably aimed at teenagers. I think is a very casual style, which everyone can afford. In fact, I see a lot of inspiration from lower class jobs. For example the hat is inspired by fisherman hats by Fila which is a well-known but not expensive brand. The jeans denim shorts and coloured leggings are the fashion between teenagers now. The shirt looks really simple and also the backpack even if we can’t see it can symbolise simplicity and comfortably. The photographer and stylist made their subject look really simple and in comfortable clothes, she has messy hair and the hat on. They also shot this on location, outside in a place really makes you think she is off to a festival.

Image 3

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Alexa Chung is known for her trademark cool-girl aesthetic. She creates styles which are for high-class women but street style. The clothes have the perfect balance between high-end and high street. You can tell it has been influenced a lot by menswear.

 

 

Evalutation

This module has really helped me to analyse in-depth photos and have a deep understanding of Fashion photography, advertising in general, portraiture, reading images and cultures. All the individual tasks we have been given have helped me to know new things and improve my researching skills. The group tasks we’ve been given have also improved my team working skills, communication and organization because during these tasks I had to work with my classmates, organise ourselves well and also meet in times we did not have lessons to achieve a good results. For example for the subculture assignment my group and I worked well, we decided assigned roles and organised everything as soon as we were given the assignment. In fact, we were able to finish everything on time, without any rush. We all helped each other and assigned roles that everyone wanted to be in. This task also helped me with InDesign as I used it years ago, it was a good way to remember how to use it.  The second group task we had been a debate on whether Fashion photography is art or not. My group and I were standing for fashion not being art, but just sophisticated eye candy designed simply to seduce. I think for this, task we did not plan things well, in fact we got to the debate day not really sure about what to present. This showed me how even a debate where you have a free will of speaking needs to be organised and prepare too and how the attendance of every individual in the group is important.

I really enjoyed working on the ‘Shock and Subculture Style’ as it did not only improved my knowledge but also helped me gain more inspiration which I could use in my own work.

Overall this assignment has helped me study in deep the context of images, clarify statements and ideas

Interdisciplinary studies

THE EXPERIENCE

In this module we had to work both within and outside our programme area. For the first term I worked in the commercial photography sector which was good for me as it’s what I’m studying at the moment but for the second term I had to choose two other subjects to do and I chose Growth/Film and Prism.

EXPERIENCE 1

In the first term with my photography class we created two contrasting live photographic shoots, offering other students to have their portrait taken in 2 styles ‘Film Noir’ or ‘High End Fashion’.

Film Noir: is a cinematic term used to describe stylish Hollywood crime dramas, which was represented a11397_tretij-chelovek_or_the-third-man_1520s dark, seductive and in black and white. It developed during and after World War II because of the post-war atmosphere of anxiety and suspicion. Movies like ‘Lift To The Scaffold’ and ‘The Third Man’ are well-known film noir films. To create the same film noir feel in our photos we had to consider some factors and what we can use to gain such effects. These picture had to be moody dark and dramatic. We had to think about cinematic scene which we then recreated with still photos. We used black and white effects, props, low-key lighting and continuous lighting to create the atmosphere we also created a lot of contrast and shadows.

 

My group and I worked well and enjoyed creating these photographic scenarios, I like how we recreated window blinds with tape and played a lot with the lighting and shadows. We initially used one key light and then we used two controlled speedlight flash.

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Pop Art Fashion Photography:  pop art itself emerged in the 50s, and with time it has been used a lot in the fashion industry. It is a self-reflexive expressionist movement and it introduces aspects of mass culture. Pop art employed familiar mass culture imagery from advertisements to other banal objects, wrapping it into bold colour combinations. Richard Hamilton, defines it as “popular, transient, expandable, low-cost, mass-produced, young, witty, sexy, gimmicky, glamorous, big business”. Pop artist introduced a bright palette of colors and print definition form, which were used as the inspiration by many designers at that time and now.

I really had fun in creating a pop art fashion shoot and I’ve learnt that lighting up coloured background is much complicated that lighting a plain white or black background and also you have to make sure your subject is either in contrast with the background or to complement it. The use of colourful furry unusual props makes the pictures look even better.

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The day we offered other students to have their portraits taken we had two groups, one was running the film noir and the other the pop art fashion. I was in the Fashion one. I really enjoyed the experience also because we had the chance to experiment other activities on the day. It was really fun and  we all had the chance to take pictures, set up lights and suggest poses.

BAIS300-Experience-1-of-3 (196 of 326)

 

EXPERIENCE 2

Contemporary Media Practice – Prism

I did chose to do this subject even if it wasn’t my first choice because I knew it had some filming and editing involved so I could improve and remind how to edit videos as I used to do it and the name ‘Prism’ did catch my attention.
The brief was tScreen Shot 2017-04-26 at 17.22.32.pngo produce a 60 second video of art that celebrate
es artistic practices within a commercial framework. We had to create
something that is both visually creative and challenging but would also be suitable within a commercial model. The subject of our film had to be one of the creative disciplines that are studied here at PCA. This had to be represented through development of our own abstract perspectives. We had three weeks to do this, in the first week after a brief into of the whole subject and explanation of what it was about we were put into groups of two and had to develop our work by exploring and researching ideas, themes related to the discipline we decided to choose and style of film you plan to make.Screen Shot 2017-04-26 at 17.22.41.png

We decided to go for photography and show the evolution of photography. I initially had an idea of how I wanted it to result but the final piece was not what I expected probably because the filming wasn’t good and we did not plan our storyboards right. So in this first week we planned our storyboards ready and planned everything so we would be ready to film the next week.  The second week we filmed and also created some images to add-on our video on Photoshop and after we started editing our footage on Premier Pro. In the last week we finished the editing and showed our final piece to the rest of the class.

For this project, I think my classmate and I organised ourselves well, as we only had 3 weeks, in fact we were able to finish and present everything right on the deadline. We did encounter problems when filming and also during the editing. I admit I did struggle with using Premier Pro, although teachers where there to help because I used to use Final Cut all the time so I thought it was similar but I’ve learnt that the two softwares are not as similar as I thought as many shortcuts and tools which are used are different.

Overall, though, it was a good experience and the teacher did a good job and was always available to help and explain everything to us and I did improve my Premier Pro skills.

You can find the final video on :

2016-17 > Interdisciplinary Studies > Sandra

“Laura and Sandra (Contemporary Media Practice Film)MVI_0231_1”

EXPERIENCE 3

Film/Growth

This was the final experience and I did choose to do this, for the same reason I chose prism as I knew it would have helped me improve my filming and editing skills. For this experience we had to make a 60 second film/video loop to form part of a large installation.

During the first week we had a brief into on why we chose to do ‘Growth’, we worked on the concept of ‘Growth’, where everyone wrote what came to their mind when they heard the word ‘Growth’ and we watched some videos to give us an idea and did a direct animation workshop, where we were given a strip of clear film or film which already contains images and we scratched it in different ways and then played it through an old film  machine. In the second week we worked with found footage, and animation examples, to complete our short 1 minute film. In my group we looked for clips on the internet and downloaded them and we used the other short scratched film and combined them together on Premier Pro to create a final video.

The third and final week  we had a critical screening of each film, and final exhibition on 9 screen video wall.

 

Overall, I did enjoy this project, once again my editing skills in Premier Pro has been improved as I feel more confident in using basic tools and shortcuts, I did enjoy the film scratching although I don’t think I can use this skill in my own practise.

You can find the final video on :

2016-17 > Interdisciplinary Studies > Sandra “Laura+Sandra(Growth Film).MOV ”

 

 

Fashion Photography BACP102

In this module, we have been introduced to the world of Fashion Photography and we will have to produce a portfolio of fashion images.

WHAT IS FASHION PHOTOGRAPHY? Fashion photography is a genre of photography which does not focus on the subject in the photo but in showing the clothes and other fashion items. In fact what makes fashion portraiture different from Editorial portraiture is that in fashion, the identity of the person isn’t important as there’s no much story to tell, the aim is just to make the items look good and persuade people to buy it.  Fashion photography is used in fashion magazines but also for advertisements. With time, it has developed its own aesthetic, to enhance the clothes and other items, photographers started thinking not only about the clothes but also interesting locations, props and ideas.

Statement of intent

For this assignment, we’ve been asked to take different fashion shots which have to include 2 final ones on location indoors and outdoors full length and 2 finals studio-based, with coloured backgrounds and also focused on the concepts of lighting, either by using a high key, mid key or low-key. Also, these photos need to be suitable for Spring/Summer 2017, which means I will also have to look into the current trends.

To gain more inspiration and have more ideas I researched into fashion’s history and also studied and explored in-depth 4 magazines, looked at two fashion photographers and two stylists that I like.

To begin with, I had a rough idea of what I wanted my photos to look like and the style. I wanted it to be in the style of Afropunk as it’s a trend and fashion style that has been going on for a while.

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WHAT IS AFROPUNK AND HOW DID IT START? (www.afropunk.com)

Afro-punk started as a movement in America and in 2003 Matthew Morgan produced ‘Afro-Punk’, a documentary about Black Punks in America. The purpose of this documentary was to give a voice to thousands of multi-cultural kids strongly identifying with a lifestyle path-less-traveled.

With time AFROPUNK has evolved into a cultural movement that reminds the early days of Hip-Hop. Many urban kids who felt like outsiders noticed that they were actually the core of an innovative and fast-growing community.

Unknown.pngSocial networks like Instagram, twitter and Facebook pages have really helped this movement to grow fast, they share stunning fashion and character portraits of a range of diverse people. I love how these photos are so unique and different from the usual portraits. I think photography has been a powerful medium for the afropunnk movement to get viewers and be known in many places around the world. Just as I was impressed when I first saw their photos so many others were attracted in positive but also in a negative way. image.jpgThis is because some think this movement is just increasing racial conflicts between blacks and whites, as it looks like this movement is valorizing black people more than whites. Yes, this movement started off especially for the black youth, this is because many youngers in the black community have always felt inferior to others and restricted, especially in industries like fashion or photography and that’s because we can clearly see the lack of black models, stylist, photographers etc.. And Afropunk is a way to empower all the young blacks not to be intimidated by the current situation and to pursue their goals even if it’s in a predominantly white industry. Also not to forget that Afropunk is also intended for all those who are unique in their own way and many times because of their uniqueness and individuality they are not accepted whether you are black or white. This movement empowers everyone that feels that way.

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The videos below quickly show and explain what is the Afropunk movement about.

I researched into AFROPUNK because I’m mainly interested in the style and it is also similar to the new trend summer/spring 2017, Coachella fashion, they are both festival/street style.

Coachella fashion

Coachella is a music festival, it began in 1999, with a two days event in October. It came back few years after changed into a one-day event. However, since 2007, it has been a three-day event and the two-weekend format started in 2012. With years Coachella has become the festival where everyone wants to go, probably thanks to the numerous amount of photos people have shared on Instagram during the event but also thanks to the celebrities that attend this festival. The festival allows everyone to show off their spring and summer style. A bit like fashion week, and the Afropunk Festival on the event there are a lot of different personalities with interesting styles. Many singers and other celebrities attend this festival, wearing their best Coachella outfit.

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Celebrities like Jamie Chung and Kendal Jenner, Vanessa Hudgens.

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This year’s Coachella festival is on the weekends 4-16th April and 21-23rd April. Singers like Radiohead and Kendrick Lamar are scheduled to perform and others like DJ Khaled and Bastille. The main style of the event is usually wearing denim shorts or jeans, floral and patterned dresses, cowboy boots, edged jackets and a lot of jewellery. So Coachella and Afropunk are the two styles that I will try to combine and select summer/spring outfits for my models.

RESEARCHING FOUR MAGAZINES.

For this assignment we were also asked to study in depth four magazines and identify:

  1. who’s their target audience?
  2. how do they differ?
  3. what are the various stylistic approaches ?

and it had to be:

  • A monthly fashion magazine: I chose to look at Vogue
  • A weekly fashion magazine: I chose Grazia
  • A men’s magazine: I chose GQ
  • An alternative fashion magazine: I chose ID

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Vogue is the number one fashion magazine in the world, its first issue came out in 1892 in America and it was acquired by Conde Naste Publishers in 1909.
Screen Shot 2017-05-28 at 12.25.46Immediately the main focus of the magazine were women. Vogue is often referred as “the fashion Bible.” This magazine is followed by billions of people who have interests in new trends, fashion and beauty. For a designer, model, photographer or celebrities to work or appear in this magazine is the top-level in the fashion industry.  In fact, well-known photographers like Mario Testino have worked for this magazines and well-known top models like Naomi Campbell and Claudia Schiffer have posed for this magazine.                                                                                     In the First World War Vogue made impossible deliveries to the other part of the world, so they started printing in England and in 1920 the first French Vogue was released and in 1932 the American Vogue had a coloured photograph on the cover for the first time. Vogue became a symbol of a new era in the 60’s under the leadership of Diana Vriland, the magazine became more creative and open.

Vogue has had different editors starting with Victoria Davydova who joined Condé Nast in 1998, she started as and soon became a director in this sector. She actively worked to help with the Russian Vogue and this made her Editor-in-Chief of Russian Glamour. Karina Dobrotvorskaya, President, Condé Nast New Markets and Editorial Director states: “Victoria has profound understanding of her readership; she is perfectly experienced if all aspects of glossy business, immediately caught by the tail all latest trends in fashion industry and journalism stylistic. I am absolutely sure that Victoria will make Vogue a truly wonderful magazine – fresh, trendy, sharp and elegant”. Interestingly, since 2008 the Russian Vogue holds Fashion Nights Out, which are annual festivals of fashion and shopping where Vogue readers can meet their favourite designers, models etc.

Looking at the statistics Vogue is majorly a women’s magazine, with a majority of 85% women and 15% of Men that read and works in it. The highest percentage of age group is between 16 to 34 years whereas from 35 years going up the percentage of readers falls into 16 percent. It also shows that the main audience is made of 64% of workers like business owners, managers, specialists, white-collars and the 78% of people who have a high income. Strangely, I would have thought the majority would have been within the people who buy clothes and shoes, but instead the majority of people buy cosmetics and perfumes. Additionally, 54% of the audience make time to read Vogue and 49% save favourite issues of Vogue.

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Vogue, always uses similar iconic fonts, colour and layout and this makes the magazine very appealing. Other magazines like Seventeen, use much more vibrant colours and explosive fonts. Vogue uses large photographs as focal points and including celebrities as the main faces of the magazine attract more viewers. In fact according to Monk “Vogue is very successful in attracting its audience, resulting in continual high readership.” Other fashion magazines, like Elle and Marie Claire have almost the same audience as Vogue, but they are not as high. This is because Vogue focuses on selling not only printed copies but also online versions. In 2013 their sales in printed magazines dropped to 10.4%, but the online views were very high. They create very strong covers to catch the viewer’s attention, as the cover is what will catch people attention, they focus on the photograph but also other elements like colour, fonts and cover lines. This magazine is also very sophisticated, the U.S Vogue issue uses a lot of white in the covers but the Italian and French one uses less. This shows how Vogue changes its layout but there’s still a consistency in all the different publications. Interestingly, A.s Brown criticised “Remember, when you feel thoroughly annoyed by pushing out the same content, that’s the same time you have just made a decent impression in the market. .” This explains how Vogue has created various, different covers etc but always kept the same style. Compared to other magazines Vogue has a larger audience and need to be able to appeal to more people and backgrounds.

I personally love Vogue, many times in the past I have used the magazine as a source of research and inspiration and can say is one of my favourite fashion magazines.

https://www.condenast.ru/en/portfolio/magazines/vogue/history/

Caroline, D. (2013). What makes a best-selling magazine cover? Retrieved from: http:// http://www.divinecaroline.com/entertainment/what-makes-best-selling-magazine-cov- er?page=3

Crotty, N. (2012 August). Here are the 10 models who have covered Vogue the most. Re- trieved from: http://fashionista.com/2012/08/here-are-the-10-model-who-have- covered- vogue-the-most/

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Grazia is a weekly women’s magazine, which originated in Italy but is printed in any other countries like Albania, India, Serbia, Japan, Bulgaria, Poland, Indonesia, France, Croatia United Kingdom and many other places. The Italian edition was first published in 1938 by Mondadori. This magazine follows Italian traditional values such as cooking and child-rearing. During the second World War, the magazine followed fascist rules and, propaganda and it was renewed after. In Italy, it is owned by the Mondadori which later became one of the Ex-Prime Minister Silvio Berlusconi. Grazia is the first Italian weekly magazine to extend its successful formula abroad, creating the most dynamic magazine Network on the market. In July 2015 the magazine published an article about raising family pets to make money to buy better furniture. This got the attention of animal lovers. The British edition of the magazine started in 2005 and is owned in the UK under licence by Bauer Consumer Media.

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In November of the same year, its edition in the United Arab Emirates was first issued and the French version was first published in August 2009. Grazia readers are women aged 25 to 45 year and it has more AB profile readers than Vogue and Elle. An article describes a Grazia readers saying: “She’s a savvy, affluent, confident, busy and modern woman who actively participates in the world around her”. Grazia magazine include couture catwalk to the latest high street/designer collaboration, from the front rows of Paris to the pockets of east London. The magazine is very interesting also for the mix of features it contains, different debates and talks about politics, hard-hitting reports and real life stories from women behind the news. Grazia beauty has become synonymous with leading the trends and driving the news. Grazia had a circulation of 374,213 copies in 1984 and in the first half of 2011 it rose to 382,000 copies. During the same period, the British edition produced 219,741 copies. The magazine also has an app with interactive content from weekly glossy, which can be scanned to select pages in some issues and unlock exclusive behind-the-scenes videos and extra interviews. I can say Grazia magazine has really evolved in every aspect especially in the way it promotes itself and had made it quick and easier to access the online source.

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Gentlemen’s Quarterly is one of the few magazines that offers reports of latest men’s fashion and style news. It was launched in 1931 in United States as Apparel Arts. It was initially a men’s fashion magazine for the clothing trade, aimed primarily at wholesale buyers and retail sellers and it had a very limited print run.                                                 The popularity of this magazine spurred the creation of Esquire magazine in 1933. In 1958 the name Apparel Arts was changed into gentlemen’s Quarterly and was re-branded as GQ in 1967. In 1980 Conde Nast bought the magazine and the new editor, Art Cooper changed the course of the magazine and made GQ a general men’s magazine which was in competition with Esquire. justin-bieber-gq-0316-cover.jpgYears after, when Jim Nelson took over he worked both as writer and editor and made some changes that made the magazine more suitable for young readers as it included more casual styles. GQ works closely with Metro-sexuality and works with well-known photographers like Terry Richardson and has a close access to celebrities. The magazine also features an exclusive interview by world celebrities like Justin Timberlake and James Franco. GQ is published in Australia, France, Italy, India, Brazil, Japan, Germany, China, Spain, Romania, Portugal, Turkey, Taiwan, Thailand, United Kingdom, United States, Canada, Latin America Russia, South Africa and Mexico. The magazine layout starts with a section which gives a must-read brief overview of the world arts, from ballet to hip hop, from art exhibitions to TV shows. It also includes debates over the most popular topics of the month. Arsenal is the top trends in men’s fashion and other material interests like cars, watches, sports, food and sex. GQ does not only have a printed version but also supplies the online one too which keeps readers up-to-date on latest events and reports any new events immediately about politics, TV shows and fashion brands.

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They also have a tablet version which includes videos, interactive contents and extended reports. I think what makes this magazine really interesting are not only photographs but the content, is full of news and interesting topics that men are more likely to read and this will attract more male viewers to read it. Since 2005 GQ publishes the rating of “100 most stylish men of Russia and the World”, selected by the jury of fashion editors, designers, photographers and high-life producers.

Looking at the statistics in the U.S. 73% of people who read this magazine are men and the 63% of them are single. Also, 65% of them had an annual income of $50,000 and 25% had an income greater than $75,000. In Britain, the 63% of readers are males and 37% females. 34% of them are ages 16 to 24 and 43% are 25 to 34 years. From the age of 35, the percentage start decreasing from 15 % to 8%. Of these readers, 80% have a high income and 81% of them work. 66% of them are managers, professionals, employees. The 48% of the audience is willing to pay extra for the desired brand, 62% prefer to stand out against others and 42% trying to keep up with latest fashion trends.

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I-D is a British fashion magazine dedicated not only to fashion but also music, art and youth culture. It was founded by designer and former Vogue art director Terry Jones in 1980. The first issue was published in the form of a hand-stapled fanzine with text produced on a typewriter. Terry Jones was born in 1945 in Northampton and studied graphics in Bristol but dropped out as a protest when his favourite tutor resigned. He set this magazine up with his wife, Tricia. He did not want the magazine to promote fashion products but to celebrate the street style and youth culture. The first issue was released in 1980 and it just sold 50 copies.
Terry Jones believed that the lack of sales was because the magazine consisted in “street style” a concept which has now grown a lot in popularity since i-D has become more well-known. The writing was typed up on a type-writer and the models were members of the British public. The first few years for this magazine were called controlled chaos because at the time there was a different creative aspect to designing for more established magazines like Vogue and by creating such a magazine, i-D was a creative risk to Terry.  He states:

id.jpg “The idea was to break down the pigeon-holing of identity and fashion; to go beyond the facade of fashion, so you could play it as a game. So you could inject more fun into the codes of fashion.”

 He wanted to do something different and bring something new to the market, at the time it could have been a very big risk as it wasn’t something very seen and would have broken some rules  but now it is really popular as street style and cultures are very seen in today’s society and even though the magazine has changed from a hand stapled fanzine, into a mature glossy magazine, the original theme street style and youth culture, still remains the focus of the magazine and this makes it different from all the other magazines and after years the content in this magazine still surprise and inspire the audience.

The wink and smile on the front cover is a graphic representation of the magazine’s logo and it have become part of ID’s identity. This has attracted many celebrities like Madonna, Lil’ Kim and Naomi Campbell’s attention.

I-D include people in fashion, music, art and every other creative field, and has prided itself for discovering talents like Wolfgang, Nick Knight, Dylan Jones and Craig McDean, who all started their careers with this magazine. Again celebrities like Madonna, Kanye West, Victoria Beckham, Tom Ford and many others have appeared on the cover of i-D magazine.

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ID magazine does not include a lot of text, instead, it has lots of white spaces and few images in a larger dimension.

The average age of i-D magazine readers is about 15-26 years old, both male and female, they are likely to be part of a subculture and follow a specific fashion street style. Statistics indicates that readers with a mid-high salary are being targeted. Watching the magazine interviews I noticed how they always interview new upcoming talents rather than already known people and this could suggest that students, recent graduates and young professionals that work within the creative industry have the chance and position to work for this magazine. What I love about this magazine is the variety of faces, and different models from different nationalities they use this show how open this magazine is compared to all the other magazines and it is not likely to discriminate.     The reason I chose to look at this magazine is that I’m very sure I will find a lot of inspiration from it as the style is very similar to what I was researching into earlier. I will look at the work of some photographers who have shot for this magazine.

PHOTOGRAPHERS, STYLIST . . .

For our fashion brief we have to photograph four different shoots, Location indoor and outdoor and in the studio using white and coloured backgrounds. I started off by looking at two photographers. For the location ones I looked through inspiration from Tim Walker’s work and for the studio ones, I looked at Mario Testino’s work.

TIM WALKER

He was born in England in 1970 and his interest in photography began at the Condé Nast library in London where he worked on the Cecil Beaton archive for a year before university. He studied BA Honors degree in Photography at Exeter College of Art and he was awarded the third prize as The Independent Young Photographer Of The Year. He started taking photographs as a teenager, after moving to Devon with his parents and brother. In 1994, he worked as a freelance assistant in London before moving to New York City as an assistant to Richard Avedon. He returned to England and he initially worked on portrait and documentary work for British newspapers and at the age of 25 he shot his first fashion story for Vogue, and since then he has photographed the British, Italian, and American editions, and for other magazines. In 2008 he published a book called ‘Pictures’ and also had his first major exhibition at the Design Museum. In 2010 Walker’s created his first short film, ‘The Lost Explorer’, thanks, to this he won the best short film at the Chicago United Film Festival, 2011.

He opened his exhibition ‘Story Teller’ at Somerset House in London and in the same year he also published another book, which was always called ‘Story Teller’. In 2013 he released a unique collection of portraiture and illustration celebrating grandmothers. In 2012 Walker received an Honorary Fellowship from the Royal Photographic Society.

The Victoria & Albert Museum and the National Portrait Gallery in London include Walker’s photographs in their permanent collections.

His work really attracted Vogue and many other magazines attention. By looking at his work, you immediately understand he is trying to tell a story and it reminds me of fairy tales and childhood cartoons. It looks like he portrays his imaginations and ideas in his photos because all his photographs evoke wonder.  I think he is really good in recreating his imagination to us because his photographs feel true because of accurately he creates the settings.  He states: “I think I was interested in pictures from the day I was born, I always loved the illustrations in children’s books more than the stories themselves. Photography was, and is, a way to communicate. I could see things in my head that I wanted to express, but I didn’t know how to communicate them if they didn’t exist. It was a mood I could feel, or a mixture of a memory and an imaginary thing that I wanted to…”

I looked at his photo storyteller and was very inspired by the setting of these photographs and made me think about having my interior shoot in a similar setting but a different style.

MARIO TESTINO

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He is a Peruvian fashion and portrait photographer, with Irish, Spanish and Italian backgrounds.  He attended a Catholic school and wanted to become a priest when he was a child. He then studied Economics. In 1976, he decided to move to London to study photography and abandon his studies of Economics. During apprenticeships at the studios of John Vickers and Paul Nugent he made his first attempts as a photographer. At the time he was working as a waiter and his first work appeared in Vogue in 1983. For most of his work, he was inspired by the British photographer Cecil Beaton. Hi has worked internationally for magazines like Vogue, GQ, Vanity Fair etc,. He has also worked for brands like Gucci, Burberry, Versace, Micheal Kors, Lancome etc.. Not only he is a photographer, Testino has also worked as a creative director, guest editor, museum founder, art collaborator and entrepreneur. In 2007, he formed MARIOTESTINO+. The Observer described him as “the world’s most prolific magazine and fashion trade photographer”. He has now become one of the world’s most well-known and celebrated fashion photographers. He has worked with many stars, musicians, supermodels and artists. He has also photographed royalties like Diana and Princess of Wales in 1997. Testino was also the official photographer for portraits of the engagement of Duke and Duchess of Cambridge. PRESS_06-e1417802320159-1400x1126.jpgThanks to the fact that he always photographs Kate Moss and Gisele Bundchen this has elevated their status to supermodels. GQ awarded him as the Man of the Year Inspiration Award. I looked at his work to be inspired by the studio based work I will have to make. I really like the way he used complementing colours instead of using colours that would stand out from each other he used the yellow background and the model was wearing a yellow coat on top of it. The same he did with the red car at the back and the red heels. He could have swapped by perhaps letting the model wear a red coat and yellow heels, I would think it would stand out more as the colours would have been in contrast but even in this way you can still see details and it stands out.

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STYLE/STYLIST

I looked at Panos Yiapanis, A.P.C, TESSA, Alexander McQueen, Moncler etc To have more inspiration for the outfits.

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TEST SHOOTS

I organised a shoot with a model just to test the lights, so I did not look at any inspiration regarding the style etc but I looked at different poses that would suit a male.

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SELECTED ONES

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Final 1

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For this photos I used a Speedlight and the Quadra kit. I used the Speedlight more as I felt it was much easier but this shoot gave me the chance to experiment using the Quadra Kit and be more confident with it. Also, I normally don’t do any research on how to pose my models but this time I did and it was a good idea to have a sketch of poses as it helped me to direct him well. So for my next shoot, I will look at poses and keep practising so I will become more confident with the equipment and other technicalities.

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I then planned my interior shoot, looked for my model and started thinking about props style and location.

MOODBOARDS INSPIRATION / POSES I LOOKED AT

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CONTACT SHEET 

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ANALYSIS 

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FINAL

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For this shoot, I used the Quadra Kit, unlike the first shoot I was more confident, so I did not face any lighting problems. I just realised after that I had a focusing problem as my images did not look very sharp. During this shoot, we had to be really careful as it was a store and had many delicate objects that could have been hit very easily. Some places were very dark too and the mistake I did most of the times is that whenever my image was looking dark I increased the ISO and this made some of my images look very grainy. I worked well with my model and already planned my poses as I did with the previous shoot and this made everything much easier and saves time too.

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My next shoot was on location outdoors, decided to use a different model and I looked for outfits and make up in the style that I wanted that would suit her.

MOODBOARD/INSPIRATION 

I decided I wanted to shoot in a place that included graffiti so I looked where I could find such places around London and decided to shoot in the ones in Peckham and Stockwell.

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STYLE 

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POSES

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CONTACT SHEET 

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ANALYSIS

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FINAL 

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For this shoot, I used the Quadra Kit, unlike the first that was indoors this was outside so I had to be extra careful with the equipment and also had another person to assist me. Shooting outside was much more challenging. Because you can’t just focus on your model but other people and elements around you. In fact, one problem I faced was the weather, it was very cloudy and was hoping it did not start raining but at some point, it started raining slightly and I had to pack everything so the water wouldn’t damage the equipment but luckily it did not rain for long and stopped after some minutes. Unlike the previous shoot where the place was very dark, this open place was very bright and many times the background was overexposed. I worked well with the model and made sure she was fine, not too tired or too cold as the weather wasn’t the best and we travelled a lot around London that day.

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I now had to work on my studio-based shots. I started with the coloured background one, I started by looking at different outfits and makeup.

MOODBOARD INSPIRATION / POSES I LOOKED AT

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CONTACT SHEET

ANALYSIS

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FINAL

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WHAT WORKED WHAT DID NOT WORK

This shoot was in the Media Studio using the yellow background. I initially wanted to use 4 lights, two softboxes at the front and 2 dishes at the back but because of a technical problem on the BX kit I had to use only 3. I used 2 dishes at the back, flagged them with 2 poliboards and a big octagon softbox as my key light. My back lights were set at F8 and the key light F11, I had to change the power few times as any time the model moved in a different place the lights were changing. I worked well with my model, although we did not have enough time as she had to go somewhere after and when she there I was not done setting up the lights because of the issue I had with one of the lights. Fortunately, I had all the poses ready and was able to direct her and take enough photos in the short time we had.

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MOODBOARD INSPIRATION / POSES I LOOKED AT

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CONTACT SHEET

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ANALYSIS

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FINAL

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This shoot was in the product studio. I used the same setting I used for the previous shoot, with 2 soft boxes at the back and the octagon at the front without using poliboards this time. Thanks to a number of times I have been working in the studio this semester, I have become more confident in fact it did not take me long to set the lights, it could also be because it was on a white background so it was much easier than the coloured one. My model and I planned the poses and outfits in advance and she was very confident and knew what she was doing, probably because she is into fashion. This was also the only shoot which I planned with my model as she wanted to help me in suggesting looks and styles. Everything went well with this last shoot and I’m happy with the final result.

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my final 4 images 

EVALUATION

For this fashion project we were required to produce a series of imagery centred on fashion, by exploring the styling casting and direction of our model. I had to study in-depth four magazines, and analyse them by looking at how they differ, what are their various stylistic approaches and who’s the target audience. I decided to look at Vogue for the monthly magazine, as I thought it was relevant to the style I wanted to create and find inspiration, I looked at Grazia for the weekly magazine, GQ for men magazine and ID for the alternative magazine, I chose to look at this magazine because of the content I definitely knew it would have inspired me for this fashion assignment. In fact, most of my ideas and inspiration came from I-D magazine. Through this magazine I was able to find which photographers, stylist and collections to look at and I ended up looking deeply into Tim Walkers work and Mario Testino. For the style I started off by looking into the Afropunk and Coachella style, I did a bit of background research as they are both collections but also movements and festivals, I researched into them but what I took from it was the style. The reason why I chose this two themes and combined it is because those are the big trends for Summer/Spring 2017. It was also really interesting to research about 2 photographers in-depth and know about their story. During this assignment we had fashion week where we had the chance to work together with models, make up artist, hair stylists and commercial photography third and second years students on a location shoot in Pentillie Castle. I was initially very excited about this experience, but it did not reach my expectation, it was a productive day and a new experience I definitely did learn something new but I thought we would have been much more engaged in working together, as a team and having lots of work to do but that did not happen as my group ended up splitting up and many times some of us found ourselves doing nothing. However, thanks to this fashion week I was much more confident when I had to shoot my interior photos and we also had many workshops in studio and outdoors and they all helped me to be more confident and understand how it works as when I had my shoots I was alone but knew what I was doing. My first test shoot went well, it was just a shoot where I was testing the lights so did not really plan the shoot I just looked at some poses to direct him and this revealed to be really helpful, in fact for all the following shoots I had a series of poses already prepared and this saved a lot of time and helped me direct the models well. My second shoot was an interior shoot, which I shot in a vintage shop, I relly enjoyed this shoot as we had plenty props we could use and create interesting photos. I then had the outdoor shoot, which was in London, where we shot in different places but had to be careful with the equipment because of the weather and the city is very crowded. My other shoots in the studio went well too and made me realise that I have become much more confident. Overall, I am really happy with the final results, I did try to put effort and make time for all these shoots which I really enjoyed. I initially was very worried that I wouldn’t have been able to work out the equipment myself but I was able to do so even because most of the people I asked to assist me during the shoot were just friends who were not into photography so I had to figure everything out and the same in the studio, For my last shoot I set up the lights and everything by myself, this shows how this assignment has improved my technical knowledge.